Itinerary Summary:
Travel Time: August 2024 (v. good time – check avg. conditions by month here)
Day 1: Drive to Lech via Hochtannberg Pass
Day 2: Gondolas in and around Lech using the Lech Card
Day 3: Drive to Ischgl and Galtür via Zürs and Flexenpass
Day 4: Short hike to Zug am Arlberg and drive back via Ulm
Travel Tip 1: Select vignette-free road in Austria to both save money and enjoy some stunning vistas.
Travel Tip 2: Lech can be quite expensive and so booking directly with the hotel can help save a few pennies.
Distance travelled: ~1050km by road
As any Indian living in Europe, we miss the joy of basking in the sun for almost eight, if not nine, out of the twelve months in the year. And so, we eagerly look forward to our summer holidays to really soak up both the rays of the sun and the spectacular beauty of the European continent. One such place that which we enjoyed and that truly amazed us was Lech in Austria.
Normally a winter paradise that’s reknowned for its world-class ski slopes (it’s 300kms of slope are a favourite haunt of the Dutch royalty!), this town located on the Arlberg Mountain Range in the state of Vorarlberg, transforms into a hiker’s paradise in summer, with lush alpine meadows, crystal-clear lakes, and gondolas offering easy access to panoramic trails. We spent four days in all, including the journey to and from Lech, but we feel we could have easily spent a week more – maybe someday in the future!
Day 1: Driving to Lech and exploring Lech town
Our trip began with an early morning drive in torrential rain through the otherwise stunning German countryside. We were apprehensive that our summer vacation would turn more into a dreadful combination of Austrian autumn and Indian monsoon. Thankfully, however, the sun started to shine just after we entered Austria at Bregenz (located on the banks of Lake Constance or Bodensee), and any doubts that we had about the futility of our journey were soon laid to rest as we navigated the alpine roads of the jaw-dropping Hochtannberg Pass. As we further ascended the mountainous terrain beyond Warth-Schröcken, we found ourselves amidst landscapes that are generally reserved for postcards and wallpapers.
We reached Lech in the early hours of the afternoon, where our hotel was situated in the shadow of the imposing Omeshorn mountain, in the aptly named district of Omesberg. After settling into our hotel and grabbing a quick afternoon nap to recharge ourselves, we ventured out to explore the town. Heading downhill we soon reached Lech Brücke, where the Lech and Spullerbach rivers meet. We continued to walk alongside the Lech riverfront all the way to the Lechwelten Convention Centre, admiring the traditional alpine chalets that dotted the town’s landscape. Having soaked in the beauty of this picturesque and charming town that was surrounded on all sides by towering hills and mountains, we headed back to our hotel apartment to turn in for the night.
Food haunts of the day: Breakfast of a Turkish Flatbread sandwich with Tomato and Mozzarella from a Der Beck bakery (very good), Brunch at a McDonalds in Biberach Bregenz (quite good), and homemade dinner with groceries from Spar Lech.
Day 2: Making the most of the Lech Card
Our itinerary for our first full day in Lech was to explore the nearby mountain tops that were easily accessible by cable car. The most economical and convenient way we figured was to buy a Lech Card – for a relatively measly amount of 36 euros per head, we had access to six gondolas over two days, and the best part was that we could receive them directly at our hotel reception! So, with logistics sorted for the day, we headed out just as the morning clouds were starting to make way for the sun to peek through.
Rüfikopfbahn: Our first cable car of the day took us to a height of more than 2350m within a span of around 10 minutes. As Lech is located at a height of 1,444m, this meant that our large 80 person cable car climbed almost 10 metres every second! Despite the cold weather and the lingering cloud cover all around, we managed to grab some exquisite views from both the 360° viewing platform and the beautifully maintained Panorama Bergrestaurant.
Zugerbergbahn: Standing almost 600m above the nearby town of Zug, we could feel the sun almost finding its way through the clouds. As the entire area was dotted with “easy” hiking trails (making it a favourite amongst families with young children), we too took a short and comfortable walk to the nearby pond of Speichersee. We stood spellbound by the serenity and verdant beauty of the meadows and pastures around us, before heading back down to the town of Lech. An additional travel tip – parking near the base station of the Zugerbergbahn is through the nearby Fischteich restaurant who charge 20 euros for the whole day.
Bergbahn Oberlech: Post lunch, we took the relatively short trip via the Bergbahn to the aptly named commune of Oberlech (literally means Above Lech!). Aside from the two-hour hike to the Körbersee (often considered the most beautiful lake in Austria), the area around Oberlech offers some relaxing walking and adventurous biking trails.
Petersboden: This six-seater open air chairlift took us above Oberlech to a total height of almost 2000 metres. The steady but steep climb took our breath away and also left us with butterflies our stomach at times – might be a bit challenging for those with a fear of heights. It got much easier once we reached the top and there were quite a few hiking trails, including some easy ones. We, however, were happy to soak in the vistas of the surrounding jagged peaks and enjoy the festivities of a local wedding taking place at the Wolf Ski Hut from a distance, before making our way back for one final gondola ride.
Seekopfbahn: The base station of our final cable car for the day was in the neighbouring town of Zürs. The entrance was a little difficult to locate (Google Maps got it wrong when we selected drive mode) – for future reference, it is opposite the first parking lot as one drives in from Lech. But having found our cable car, we quickly embarked on an amazing adventure in an enclosed chairlift that took us to a height of 2214m. Once at the top, we hiked to and around the nearby Zürsersee – it’s about a 30-40 min walk rather than the 6 minutes shown on Google Maps. The tranquil waters and rugged scenery made it one of the highlights of the day, but what really took the cake for us, was the journey back – the almost 520m journey downhill left us breathless, not just because of the steep decline at a speed 18kmph, but also because of the absolutely mesmerizing beauty of Zürs and the Flexenpass.
Travel Tip: Out of the 350 kms of hiking trails that dot the Arlberg region, many are theme-based. The Green Ring is one such trail that has been designed keeping in mind families with children. More details can be found here.
Food haunts of the day: Cappuccino and Hot Chocolate at the Rüfikopf Panorama Restaurant (amazing with breathtaking views), and lunch and dinner at the hotel with groceries from Spar Lech.
Day 3: Exploring the Surrounding Valleys
On our third day, we decided to venture beyond Lech and explore the nearby valleys. Our plan was to drive towards the town of Ischgl via the famous and spectacular Silvretta Hochalpenstrasse. However, as the scenic stretch between the Partenen and Galtür Mautstelles was closed, we instead drove via the Flexenpass and the town of St. Anton am Arlberg to reach Ischgl.
Ischgl: Known for its ski resorts, Ischgl was much quieter, with only a handful of tourists around in summer.We strolled along the Trisanna river, taking in the charms of the alpine town and admiring the combinations of and contrasts between its modern resorts and traditional alpine hotels.
Galtür and Mathon: We decided to continue driving beyond Ischgl to the furthest point that was left unaffected by road closures. This led us first through the town of Mathon, with its traditional alpine houses and serene surroundings, that seemed to be untouched by time. We paused for a moment by the side of the road to take in the beauty of the Silvretta Alps looming in the distance, before continuing our journey to the town of Galtür, nestled in the Paznaun Valley. Like Ischgl, Galtür too is a well- known winter sport destination, but in summer the town felt eerily quiet and remote, and except the odd hiker trudging along, there was little other activity going on. We, however, were happy to click photos of the scenic landscapes before making heading back once again via Ischgl towards Lech.
Flexenpass: Heading back to Lech, we followed the panoramic Arlbergstrasse. This took us through the famous Flexengalerie. This winding road was carved into the side of the mountain in the late 19th century. The sheer drops and sharp turns made our drive exhilarating. Next came the Flexenpass and the road passed through some breathtaking scenery – while we had seen some of these the day before from the Seekopfbahn, driving on a smooth stretch of road while being surrounded by steeply rising mountains and rolling meadows on both sides was an experience in itself.
Travel Tip: The Silvretta-Hochalpenstrasse is a private toll road, and so it will not show up if the option of toll roads has been switched off on Google Maps.
Food haunts of the day: Sandwiches from Gotthard Cafe in Lech (average), and dinner at the hotel with groceries from Spar Lech.
Day 4: Early morning hike to Zug am Arlberg and drive home via Ulm
Three days in Lech had passed by much quicker than we had expected. We had spent our time in a perfect mix of adventure and leisure. And we wanted to combine both these elements on our final day too. Which is why despite a long drive ahead of us, we woke up early and headed out of our hotel in conditions that can only be described as magical.
Hike to Zug am Arlberg: Even though the sky was overcast, the mist that hung over the Lech River that flowed by right next to our hotel gave a painting like appearance to the scenery around us. Walking along the Lechuferweg riverside path we traced the course of the river through alpine meadows and past wooded stretches, all while the sound of the gushing river accompanied us. While the path was relatively flat, the views of the surrounding peaks and forests were anything but. As we approached Zug, the road passed through the local golf course before terminating at the Zugerbergbahn cable car station. In the distance we could see the village’s few traditional houses located amidst mountains that rise almost vertically. While we could have spent hours sitting at one of the spots on the way, we also knew that this would only be delaying the inevitable – our journey back home, and so we decided to head back to our hotel and wind up our trip to this beautiful place.
Drive back via Ulm: While we could have spent hours sitting at one of the spots on the way, we also knew that this would only be delaying the inevitable – our journey back home, and so we decided to head back to our hotel and wind up our trip to this beautiful place. On our way back, we made a brief stopover at the town of Ulm, known for its stunning Münster or Minster. The spire of this church is the tallest in the world, and we couldn’t but help gape at its magnificence as it towered over the old town. Having appreciated the intricate Gothic architecture, we headed towards the Fischerviertel or the Fishermen’s Quarter of the town. This historical area stood in complete contrast to the grandeur of the Minster, with narrow streets, half-timbered houses, and small canals running through the district. It was a pleasant surprise, adding a bit of cultural exploration to an otherwise nature-filled journey.
Entering home after four-days in Lech we felt a surge of feelings – tired after a long journey, but at peace with, but also missing the experiences that we had enjoyed the past few days. From peaceful strolls to moderately adventurous hikes to just standing and enjoying spectacular views, we had managed to get a taste of what makes Lech and the region around the Arlberg Massif so special, not just in winter but also in summer. While prices can sometimes be prohibitively exorbitant, especially in winter, we felt that our time in the relatively quieter and cheaper summer months was truly worth it.
As the days will pass and our memories of the minute details of our trip will start to fade, one thing is for certain, the feeling of being in the midst of some of the most spectacular natural beauty that we had seen so far will remain etched forever and will motivate us to keep going back to explore more of the beautiful country that is Austria. Auf wiedersehen und bis bald, Österreich!
Food haunts of the day: Breakfast at the hotel with groceries from Spar Lech and late lunch of Fettuccine Pollo, Rigatoni Verdure, and Funghi Pizza at Tanivera in Ulm (Rigatoni was very good, others were ok).
