Itinerary Summary:
Travel Time: June 2024 (v. good time – check avg. conditions by month here)
Day 1: Rhodes Town
Day 2: Lindos, Gadoura Dam, and Apollona
Day 3: Kalami Beach and Anthony Quinn Bay
Day 4: Panormitis Symi and Symi Old Town
Travel Tip: Unlike many Greek islands that are frequented by “Instagrammers” and partygoers, Rhodes is a very family-friendly island, filled with all-inclusive resorts.
Distance travelled: ~223km by road
The islands of Greece have been amongst our favourite haunts since we first visited Santorini in 2019. And we have tried visiting at least one every year (barring 2020 because of the pandemic) since then. For 2024, we had in mind the Dodecanese ones of Rhodes and Symi. For the uninitiated, Greece has 227 inhabited islands divided into eight broad groups. The Dodecanese, as the name suggests, are a group of 12 large islands located off the coast of Turkey in the south-eastern part of the Aegean Sea, of which Rhodes is the largest and has also historically been their capital.
Day 1:
Our early morning flight from Nuremberg to Diagoras International Airport followed a south-easterly path, over parts of Germany, Austria, and the Balkans, before entering Greek airspace and landing at Rhodes. Exiting the airport, we headed over to the airport shuttle area, and were soon at the premises of RecordGo, picking up a brand new, Toyota C-HR, our drive for the next four days.
Since we had the entire day ahead of us, we thought of checking-in to our hotel, a simple but well-serviced family run hotel studio complex, located only half an hour away on the opposite side of the island’s north-eastern tip and dropping of our luggage, before starting the exploration of this Mediterranean gem.
Rhodes Harbour and Windmills: Our exploration of the island in earnest began with a drive to the Medieval City of Rhodes. The scenic drive along the turquoise waters of the Aegean coast, reminded us of why we keep going back to Greece. We parked near the Nea Agora marketplace complex built during more recent times and headed off on foot, starting with the historic harbour and the three beautifully restored stone windmills of Mandraki. We then walked past the nearby 15th century fortress of Saint Nicholas before ending up at the Doe Statue, of the pair of Doe and Stag Statues that are perched on pillars on either side of the harbour, marking the supposed site of the legendary Colossus of Rhodes, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world.
Rhodes Old Town: With the sun beating down on us, we retraced our steps along the harbour, and decided to seek shade and shelter within the walls of the medieval town. Entering the old city through the sea gate, we found ourselves at its bustling heart – Hippocrates Square. We wandered along the cobblestone streets towards the Street of the Knights, a well-preserved medieval avenue lined with historic inns and residences of the Knights of St. John. At the end of the street, we reached the awe-inspiring Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights, with its Gothic towers and arches, and one of the most important landmarks in Rhodes. From there, we ventured further into the old town, passing the Ottoman period Sulemaniye Mosque, with its rose-pink minaret. Having soaked in the varied historical sights of Rhodes, we exited the old town through the Liberty Gate.
Fontana Grande and the Colossus of Rhodes: Reappearing on the modern side of town, we walked over to the Fontana Grande, a beautiful fountain in a quiet square at the harbour. As it was a stone’s throw from the Stag Statue of the site of the Colossus of Rhodes, we couldn’t but help photograph this ancient site from both sides of the harbour. Though the original statue is long gone, the thought of its grandiosity sparks the imagination of all those visiting Rhodes even today.
Sunset at Kallithea: With the day winding down, we drove back towards Kallithea but made one last stop at the Helea Lifestyle Beach Resort. We arrived just in time to catch the sun setting against the calm waters of the Aegean, and the sky turning from shades of pink and orange to blue and then finally black.
Food haunts of the day: Brunch at the Aphrodite Restaurant Rhodes (Chicken Souvlaki and Greek Omelette – average), desserts from Zebrano Cafe (Affogato, Mochaccino, Banoffee Tart, and Tiramisu – excellent) in Rhodes Old Town, and dinner at the family-run Christos Family Taverna (Chicken Gyros and Vegetarian Spaghetti – excellent) in Kallithea.
Day 2:
Our second day in Rhodes began post-breakfast with a drive from our hotel towards the picturesque town of Lindos.
Viewpoints over Kallithea Street and for Lindos: The road along the eastern coast offered breathtaking views that demanded a stop. From one of these elevated spots along and over Kallithea Street, we admired the panoramic stretch of the crystal-clear Aegean Sea and flat beaches dotted with beach resorts against rolling hills in the distance, till as far as the eye could see. As we continued in a south-eastwardly direction past numerous hotel resorts and the tourist haunts of Faliraki and Afantou, the view of Lindos, with its whitewashed houses cascading down the hillside beneath the iconic Acropolis, soon came in to view.
Lindos Beach: Approaching Lindos, the road turned steeply downwards, and we got a glimpse of the large number of cars headed along with us to Lindos. Our concerns for finding a parking spot, however, were alleviated as we were guided by local volunteers towards a semi-pukka “paid” parking lot, a few minutes away by foot from the beach. Despite the midday sun beating down on us, the stretch of soft, golden sand lapped by gentle, turquoise waters took our breath away. No wonder this place was so popular, especially among families with young children! Wading into the refreshing waters of the shallow sea, we soaked up the idyllic surroundings and walked from one end of the beach to the other, at times through knee-deep but crystal-clear water. All the while, the Acropolis for which the town is famous for, loomed large over us, as if enjoying the views of seeing beachgoers, sunbathers, and tourists like us, bask in its glory.
Town of Lindos: From the beach, we made our way upwards through a maze of narrow cobblestone streets lined with whitewashed buildings adorned with bougainvillea. The town felt like stepping into a postcard, with its traditional charm and lively atmosphere. Small shops selling handmade crafts, ceramics, and local produce dotted the lanes that go all the way up to the Acropolis. With the afternoon sun setting the environs ablaze, we decided to skip the climb for another day and rather spent our time underneath grapevine awnings of the town’s streets.
Gadoura Dam: Having enjoyed Lindos to the fullest, we decided to take a different route back to Kallithea. This took us through the hilly interiors of Rhodes under the shadow of the Attavyros mountain – the tallest mountain in Rhodes (1,215 metres), and past the impressive Gadoura Dam. This reservoir tucked within the island’s rugged hills was completed in 2014 to provide the island with potable water and stood in stark contrast to the coastal beauty we had experienced earlier in the day. But what made us truly appreciate the dam and the foresight of those who envisioned it in 2002 was seeing remnants of 2023’s wildfires all along our route.
Apollona Village: Our final stop on the way back was a hidden gem nestled in the mountains. Far removed from tourist crowds, the traditional village of Apollona, with its old-world charm delighted us with its stone houses, small churches, and most surprisingly local wine. We sampled some amazing wine at the family-run Piperis Winery, especially the Nama dessert wines – highly recommended!
Driving back to Kallithea, in the early evening, we felt tired yet satisfied with our day’s outing. Our road trip had taken us winding through hills and valleys, expansive beaches, and quaint villages. It had opened up the diverse beauty of Rhodes for us, beyond just the beach resorts and the turquoise waters, and we couldn’t wait to explore more over the remaining two days!
Food haunts of the day: Room-made breakfast with groceries from AB Vassilopoulos near Kallithea, orange juice from Skala Restaurant Lindos (great ambience) and late lunch of Pitaroudia, Tzatziki, Vegetarian Moussaka, and Katsiki Revythia at Taverna Yiarenis (mind blowing!), in Apollona.
Day 3:
We slept like logs after a tiring sunny day exploring the heart of Rhodes. So, for our penultimate day on the island, we wanted to just unwind and laze about on some of the island’s glorious beaches.
Kalami Beach Bar: We were divided on whether to go far or somewhere close to enjoy a day at the beach – eventually proximity won, and we found ourselves enjoying a peaceful morning at the Kalami Beach Bar on Kallithea Beach, a serene spot just a kilometre’s drive from our hotel. The soft golden sands and gentle waves made it a perfect place to relax. We lounged on sunbeds, sipping fresh orange juice under the shade of straw umbrellas, and watched the cool blues of the morning give way to the blazing afternoon sun. As the heat intensified, we decided to head back to our hotel for a much-needed rest within the comforts of our airconditioned room.
Anthony Quinn Bay Viewpoint: As the rays of the sun got mellower in the afternoon, we set off once more in a south-easterly direction towards one of the island’s most iconic viewpoints – the last stretch of drive uphill is not for the fainthearted! After parking our car, we climbed up a few minutes further to the top of the ridge, where the Profitis Ilias Church stood at the perfect spot to thank the heavens for such a beautiful vista point – we could see along both the northern and the southern directions of the eastern coast of Rhodes, from flat beaches to undulating rocky hills to turquoise bays and charming villages.
Anthony Quinn Bay: Having soaked in the sights to our hearts delight, we decided to head downhill towards the bay named after the famous American actor who fell in love with the area during the filming of the movie The Guns of Navarone. On the way, we made a spontaneous stop near Artemidos upon encountering a large group of peacocks who were freely roaming around the area – they seemed to view us as intruders! Having photographed these magnificent birds (coincidentally also the National Bird of India), we managed to resume our journey and arrived at the former Vagies Bay, shortly before sunset. Steep cliffs surrounded emerald-coloured waters, creating a perfect natural amphitheatre. Boats were gently bobbing in the cove below as we made our way down steep stairs leading to the beach from the parking and the nearby Kounna Beach & Resto Bar. We took a leisurely stroll around the bay that indeed exuded a cinematic charm, capturing the rugged beauty of the coastline and soaking in the peaceful ambiance of this picture-perfect spot.
Plaka and Ladiko Beaches: With the sun setting, the temperature began to drop as well, and we decided to make our final stop(s) of the day at the nearby Plaka and Ladiko beaches. Relatively quieter than the Anthony Quinn beach, this stretch of sand further down the coast too was set in a small bay. It was the perfect place to end a relaxing day, watching the changing hues of the late evening sky against the sound of gently lapping waves, and a refreshing cool breeze providing much needed relief from the heat of the daytime sun.
Food haunts of the day: Room-made breakfast with groceries from Katavenakis Supermarket, orange juice at Kalami Beach Bar (good) and late lunch of Chicken Souvlaki, Vegetarian Spaghetti, and special Greek vegetarian Pizza at Christos Family Taverna (excellent) in Kallithea.
Day 4:
We had kept the most exciting adventure of our trip for the end and so on our last full day in Rhodes, we headed off to the neighbouring island of Symi!
We started off early and drove to Rhodes Harbour to catch the 8:55 am Nikolaos X ferry. The fresh morning air and calm waters of the Aegean filled us with a sense of excitement as the ferry slowly departed, leaving the historic town of Rhodes behind and sailed towards our first stop of Panormitis.
Panormitis Harbour and the Holy Monastery of the Taxiarch Michael Panormitis: After coasting along the Aegean for almost 90 minutes, our ferry docked at the peaceful harbour of Panormitis, named for and home to the revered monastery of Taxiarch Michael Panormitis. This serene monastery, dedicated to the island’s patron saint, is set against the islands steep hills and provides for an iconic portrait that symbolizes the beauty of not just Symi but of the entire Dodecanese chain of islands. We spent an hour exploring the monasterial grounds, admiring the Byzantine frescoes inside the chapel, and walking along the calm and deserted waterfront.
Saint George Bay: By 12:00, our ferry which had departed Panormitis with the blast of a horn that resonated across the tranquil bay, had arrived at the beautiful Saint George Bay. We could only catch a glimpse of this beautiful turquoise-water bay, which is only accessible by sea, as berthing for such large ferries was not possible. The sight, nonetheless, whetted our appetite for the ferry’s final stop at the main town of Symi.
Symi Town: As our ferry wafted into the picturesque harbour of Ano Symi, we were struck by the simplicity, but astounding beauty of the town. Pastel-coloured, neoclassical houses lined the steep hillsides that encased the beautiful harbour and bay. As a result, despite the sun beating mercilessly down on us, we spent the next few hours exploring the town on foot, including the challenging but rewarding climb up to the Castle of Symi and the Church of Agios Nikolaos. After descending from the castle, we spent the remainder of our time strolling leisurely along the waterfront which buzzed with tourists like us, who were going around the various souvenir shops or were enjoying refreshments in the bustling cafes that lined the water’s edge. We were taken over by the charm of Symi and by the time our ferry left at 16:15, we felt a sense of having discovered a truly hidden gem.
Rhodes Harbour: Our journey back to Rhodes commenced with the blast of our ferry’s horn and in what felt like little time we were soon at the site where the legendary statue of the Colossus of Rhodes once stood. We were weary after an adventurous day under the sun in Symi and the cool Aegean breeze had only tired us out more. Though we had originally planned to explore the viewpoints along Rhodes’ western coast, the climb and the sun had left us more tired than anticipated, so we decided to head straight back to our hotel for one last quiet evening.
Day 5:
The next morning, we checked out early for our flight home. We had spent four unforgettable days on Rhodes and in Symi. From medieval and ancient landmarks to breathtaking scenery to some of the best food that one can ask for, these Dodecanese Islands are a must visit. We will surely be back in Greece soon for as we said at the start, a Greek Island a year, is a must for us to travel to dear! “Τα λέμε ξανά Ελλάδα – See you again Greece”
Food haunts of the day: Breakfast of Spanakopita at Gregory’s Rhodes (good), lunch of grilled seabass and spaghetti with vegetables in tomato sauce at Taverna Trata-Trawler in Symi (not good), and Date Pudding with Banana ice cream and caramel syrup and Semifreddo yoghurt with honey and walnuts (all made from local and sustainable ingredients by a UK returned chef) at Pavone Cafe at Symi Harbour (mind-blowing), and dinner of Chicken Souvlaki and Vegetarian Spaghetti once again at the family-run Chrisos Family Taverna (excellent) in Kallithea.
