Itinerary Summary:
Travel Time: April 2024 (v. good time – check avg. conditions by month here)
Day 0: Fly from Barcelona to Ibiza
Day 1: Ibiza/ Eivissa city tour
Day 2: North Ibiza (Cala Xarraca, Portinatx, and Cala Pada)
Day 3: West Ibiza (Cala Comte, Cala Salada, and Santa Gertrudis de Fruitera
Day 4: South-West Ibiza (Mirador des Vedra) and flight back to Nuremberg
Travel Tip 1: Car rentals charge a late-night fee of 40€ for collections after 11pm
Travel Tip 2: Nude bathing is common in Ibiza, also family-friendly beaches
Travel Tip 3: Avoid flight connections that are substituted by Deutsche Bahn trains
Distance travelled: ~270km by road
Day 0:
Boarding our late night flight out of the Josep Tarradellas Barcelona–El Prat Airport at ~10:30pm felt bittersweet. We had really enjoyed our three days in Barcelona and would miss the subtle charms of the place. At the same time, we were excited for, and apprehensive of our next destination. We had heard varied tales about Ibiza – from being “a smaller version of Mallorca” to being “a larger version of Mykonos” to being “the party capital of Europe”. We wanted to experience this Ballearic Island for ourselves and make up our own minds. But landing into Ibiza Airport shortly before midnight, these thoughts had been well overtaken by the desire to get out, reach our hotel asap, and sleep! Not requiring much motivation, we sped off in our rental (a brand new Toyota Yaris), along the excellent roads towards our hotel, near the town of Santa Eulària, 30 mins away.
Day 1:
We had booked a sea facing room, and our first views of the day from our balcony did not disappoint. Turquoise blue waters of the Mediterranean peeked through Aleppo pine trees inhabited by chirping birds. Wanting to make the most of such a beautiful day, we decided to spend a leisurely day exploring the main town of Ibiza, or Eivissa as its known in Catalan.
Eivissa Harbour: Retracing some of our journey from the night before, we passed through the outskirts of small towns and villages before reaching Eivissa, and parked our car near the port. Strolling along the Puerto de Ibiza or the harbour, we were drawn to the variety of boats in sight – from sleek yachts on the one-hand to giant-ferries (to the nearby island of Formentera) on the other. We walked almost all the way till the Far d’Eivissa or the lighthouse at the end of the marina, and savoured some moments of serenity overlooking the azure waters from the Mirador de la Marina.
Mercat Vell and Castell d’Eivissa: Continuing our journey, we ventured into the old town of Eivissa along the Carrer de la Mare de Déu, which brought us to the Mercat Vell. This fresh fruit and vegetable market, designed in the form of a Greek temple, has been a central feature of the town since 1872. Right across the street lay the imposing Portal de Ses Taules arch, through which we entered the medieval walls of the Castell d’Eivissa and the UNESCO world heritage site of the Acropolis of Dalt Vila. We walked along the steep renaissance era city walls and through the winding alleys, soaking in the panoramic views of the city from the numerous baulards or watch towers, while also getting a glimpse into the island’s fascinating past.
Catedral de Santa Maria de les Neus de Vila d’Eivissa and Vara de Rey: Heading down from Baulard de Sant Bernat we passed by the Catedral de Santa Maria, the principal place of workship for Ibizians, since the 13th century. Exploring the nooks of corners of the Dalt Vila or the upper old town as well as the lower one near the harbour took us to Passeig de Vara de Rey. This charming and elegant promenade was the centre of Eivissa, and was set with bustling restaurants and cafés. Having caught our breath from both our walk and the amazing sights of Eivissa, we decided to head to our next stop, the town of Santa Eulària.
Santa Eulària des Riu: Arriving in Santa Eulària, we were greeted by its quaint streets and easy-going vibe. We joined other tourists in strolling along the Passeig del Port promenade and in posing in front of the azure waters bathed in the orange hues of the late afternoon. Returning to our hotel before the chills of the evening set in, we spent some time at the rocky beach in front of our room before walking along the coast to the Platja s’Argamasa, opposite the luxurious ME Hotel, to unwind and soak up our first sunset on the island.
As the day drew to a close, we spent some time on our balcony, listening to gentle waves crash against the beach and reflecting on a day well-spent exploring enthralling Eivissa.
Food haunts of the day: Breakfast and dinner as part of half-board package at Iberostar Santa Eulària (decent), and gelato from Barocco Artisan Gelato (excellent) in Eivissa Dalt Vila and Gambas al Ajillo and Orange juice (average) from Restaurant Formentera near Eivissa Harbour.
Day 2:
Our second morning in Ibiza was just as beautiful and sunny as our first one. Having truly enjoyed our unhurried explorations on Day 1, we thought of adopting the same strategy once again.
Heading out, we reached a fork in the road, just as Robert Frost had described in his epic poem. The choices in front of us were between heading west towards the town of Sant Antoni de Portmany as recommended by the staff in our hotel, or towards the north and the remote town of Portinatx, that we had shortlisted ourselves based on Google Images. And similar to Robert Frost’s character, we chose “the road less travelled by, and that (has) made all the difference!”
Cala Xarraca: Our exploration of Ibiza’s northern coastline began with the rugged beauty of Platja de Cala Xarraca. Nestled in a secluded cove, this narrow beach with shallow crystalline waters, offered a serene escape. We relished some moments of tranquility and dip our feet in the cold Mediterranean waters before retreating to our beach towels and drying them in the splendid sunshine.
S’Illot des Rencli: Our next stop was an adjoining beach a kilometre away. Framed by small red cliffs and lush vegetation, S’Illot des Rencli was a hidden gem, even amongst the relatively pristine areas of north Ibiza. We had an enchanting time hiking unmarked paths and capturing sights of the turquoise and azure waters with rocky S’Illots or islets in them. The untouched beauty of the place lingered with us as we headed back to our car. Looking back, we would definitely consider this to be our favourite place in all of Ibiza!
Portinatx: Continuing our journey, we headed to the small town of Portinatx, that had grown around the northernmost bay of Ibiza. This idyllic getaway was a far-cry from the tourist centric towns of Santa Eulària and Eivissa. We spent some time strolling along the promenade by the side of the Cala Portinatx and Portinatx beaches, soaking in the breathtaking sights of the golden and white sands melting away into turquoise waters, in a perfect exhibition of coastal beauty. We then took inspiration from some other tourists and perched ourselves on a ledge and spent some time listening to the relaxing sound of waves lapping against the limestone rocks.
Cala d’en Serra: With afternoon turning to evening, we decided to make our final stop at Cala d’en Serra. This horseshoe shaped bay was surrounded on all sides by cliffs that were the steepest of the ones we had encountered all day. Well off the beaten path with only a rocky trail leading to it, this tranquil enclave was made famous by Robert Smith’s 2012 book on the beaches of Ibiza and the ruins of an abandoned hotel project from the hippy era of the 1960s. Having revelled in the peace and solitude of this hidden oasis, we decided to head back and watch a relaxing sunset in the proximity of our hotel.
Cala Pada: Having regained our batteries after a brief rest in our hotel, we walked over to Cala Pada (the walk along the coast was shorter than the one suggested by Google Maps). The dreamy combination of pine trees, golden sands, placid waves, and a family-friendly atmosphere was perfect for watching the sun set over the horizon.
Heading back to our hotel as the warm orange hues of the evening Ibiza sky slowly turned into dark blue and a sense of tiredness started creeping over us, we looked back at our day spent amidst North Ibiza’s secluded beaches and scenic landscapes with a sense of gratitude and awe.
Food haunts of the day: Breakfast and dinner as part of half-board package at Iberostar Santa Eulària (decent) and late lunch of club sandwiches, orange juice, and carajillo from Can Beatrice (excellent), in Portinatx.
Day 3:
We had slept like logs after a tiring day in the sun, but still managed to wake up in time to watch a mesmerizing sunrise. Energized by the beauty and power of the early morning sun, we decided to take the road we had not taken on Day 2, and head towards western Ibiza.
Cala Comte: Our drive through central and west Ibiza unveiled a tapestry of colours and landscapes. Farms with soil the colour of red bricks were filled with orange orchards with yields unlike we had seen anywhere. Next came rocky hills and mountains that were covered in lush pine trees. And finally on arriving at Platjes de Comte or Cala Comte beach, we were stunned by the breathtaking vistas of pellucid waters in front of us. As the place was almost devoid of tourists when we reached, we could take our time and comfortably capture the Illa des Bosc island in it’s full glory. We then walked along the coastline, initially along a stretch of algae covered rocks near the beach, and then on the cliffs overlooking the coast.
Cala Escondida: Continuing alongside the crystal-clear waters, we reached the hidden gem of Cala Escondida. This secluded beach, tucked away from the crowds, was accessible only by boat or by foot via a staircase from the surrounding limestone cliffs. We did not venture into the waters as they were icy cold, and instead enjoyed the cool breeze from atop the staircase, looking out at the panoramic views of the Cap des Bou and the Illa Conillera island, which was otherwise hidden by the Illa des Bosc at Cala Comte.
Sant Antoni de Portmany: As our hotel staff had highly recommended Sant Antoni de Portmany, we wanted to spend the majority of our day there, and so set off from Cala Escondida for the 20 min drive. We parked near the town’s charming harbour and found a spot on the Playa de Sant Antoni beach to relax and gaze at the sea. While we enjoyed the nonchalant vibe of Sant Antoni de Portmany, we also felt that maybe the recommendations were a tad exaggerated, especially when compared to other places on the island. Perhaps the intention was to introduce us to Ibiza’s party hub in a state of hangover and stupor – the streets were mostly empty but large billboards advertising summer parties hosted by the best DJs in the world loomed large everywhere!
Cala Salada and Cala Saladeta: Not far from the party hubs of Sant Antoni de Portmany was the tranquil getaway of Cala Salada. This white sand beach located in a small bay that was dotted with Fisherman’s huts. As we had already enjoyed a siesta at Sant Antoni, we instead spent our time hiking along the rocks and cliffs in the direction of the neighbouring beach of Cala Saladeta (once again Google maps doesn’t have a route for this!). The water in the bay was truly magnificent – transparent till as far as our eyes could see. We gazed out towards the horizon, spellbound, soaking in the different shades of blue in front of us.
Santa Gertrudis de Fruitera: The road back from Cala Salada took us first uphill along the coastline of Ibiza in a north-easterly direction – we saw some amazing glimpses in our rear-view mirror! Plateauing out near the town of Santa Agnès de Corona, the road then traversed a more rocky and shrub-filled landscape as compared to the forested coastline. Turning southwards, we found ourselves in the quaint village of Santa Gertrudis de Fruitera. A hidden gem nestled in central Ibiza, it was named for the village’s patron saint, after whom there was a large imposing church at the village centre. Beautiful whitewashed buildings with brightly coloured windows and roofs surrounded the central park and gave the village an almost Andean vibe. An abundance of cafés, restaurants, and retail outlets, reflected the village’s popularity with a number of tourists, primarily mid-to-high-end families, who sought out this place to savour the simple pleasures of life, far from the madding crowds of Ibiza’s coast.
As we embarked on the last stretch of our day’s drive back to our hotel, we saw the hues cast by the sun over the surrounding landscapes turn warmer and gentler. Awash once again with a sense of wonder and tiredness, we spent the evening watching the sun set from the comforts of our balcony, with a tinge of sadness knowing that our Ibiza journey was drawing to a close.
Food haunts of the day: Breakfast and dinner as part of half-board package at Iberostar Santa Eulària (decent), and late lunch of club sandwiches, quesadillas, and orange juice from Musset Café and Restaurant (excellent), in Santa Gertrudis de Fruitera.
Day 4:
Diving into a plate of freshly made eggs at breakfast before checking out of our hotel on our last day on the island, we reflected on how the turquoise blue and crystal-clear waters, gently rising sea-cliffs, and quaint but well-stocked towns and villages had left an indelible mark on us.
Mirador des Vedrà: Heading towards the south-western part of Ibiza, our first stop was the viewpoint of Mirador des Vedrà, famous for its panoramic views of the iconic Es Vedrà rock formation that rises dramatically to a height of ~400m from the sea. As the parking was a good 15 minutes walk from the viewpoint, it gave us a chance to stretch our legs and also take in some fresh Ibizian air! Reaching the viewpoint, we were captivated by the natural beauty and mystical aura of the Isla de es Vedranell and the rugged vertiginous islet of Es Vedrà.
Mirador de Cala d’Hort: A short drive down the coast lay another mirador of the Es Vedrà, Mirador de Cala d’Hort. Looking out, we had a surreal experience of seeing clouds form in real-time against the almost vertical rock face – it’s no wonder that so many myths surround this uninhabited piece of rock in the Balearic Sea! Turning our gaze away from Es Vedrà and at the rest of the coastline, we could make out the crescent shape of the Cala d’Hort beach, for which this viewpoint had been named. Unfortunately, with time running out for our flight and the grumblings of our stomach getting louder, we decided to head back towards Ibiza and the airport.
Ibiza: Not wanting to risk our flight by being enamoured by Eivissa old town once again, we instead shortlisted restaurants in a different part of town. This gave us a chance to drive through streets like the Av. Pere Matutes Noguera, which seemed to be more popular with a younger crowd and those seeking parties and a vibrant nightlife.
Having made the most of our morning and afternoon, we managed to reach Ibiza airport well in time for our flight. Security check a breeze, and we boarded our Lufthansa flight back to Frankfurt with ample time to spare.
As our flight took off, giving us the chance to savour the sights of Ibiza one more time, we felt a sense of deep contentment at having spent four days there. Raves, loud music, and intoxicated groups of nude men and women – we saw none of these stereotypes associated with Ibiza. Instead, we had found it to be an absolute gem of a place to relax and unwind; a place that we would want to come back again and again. From pristine beaches to picturesque towns to hidden coves and mystical islets, we had explored all that the island had to offer, and immersed ourselves in its stunning natural beauty. Each place and journey across the island had left its mark on us, weaving together to create a canvas of diverse and enchanting memories, and inspiring us to plan our next soul pleasing travel experience!
Food haunts of the day: Breakfast at Iberostar Santa Eulària (decent), late lunch of Butter Chicken, Dal Makhani, Tandoori Roti, and Vegetable Pulao at Rosa India Restaurant (excellent) in Ibiza, and evening snacks from Burger King at Frankfurt Airport Fernbahnhof.
