Itinerary Summary:
Travel Time: December end 2023 (check average temperatures by month here)
Day 0: Travel from Kolkata (we were at home as part of our winter break) to Bangkok
Day 1: Hop-on Hop-off bus tour of Bangkok
Day 2: Day trip to Ayutthaya
Day 3: New Year’s Eve in Bangkok
Day 4: Walking tour of Bangkok’s temples and late night flight back to Kolkata
Travel Tips: 1) Cash is king, especially for tourists. 2) Grab is an economic alternative for families when compared public transport and tuk-tuks.
Distance travelled: ~3275km by flight and ~270km by road
We have always wanted to do something special every new year’s eve, and being back home in India together gave us a number of options. The most lucrative of them was to jump on a short flight from our hometown of Kolkata to Bangkok and ring in the new year with a grand fireworks display and also enjoy some great Thai food on top! And so without giving it too much more thought, we booked our tickets for a four night sojourn!
We took a late night flight out of Kolkata and were pleasantly surprised to receive a free visa on arrival in Bangkok. Unlike what we had expected, the immigration process was smooth and we quickly made our way to our accommodation located in Thonglor, one of the business districts of the city. We spent the few remaining hours of the night settling in and getting our batteries charged to explore the vibrant city of Bangkok.
Day 1:
Starting with a leisurely late morning breakfast at our hotel, we opted for convenience and took a Grab to Central World Mall, eager to begin our adventure!
Since we wanted to make the most of our short stay in Bangkok, we went for a city sightseeing hop-on-hop-off bus tour instead of taking the BTS or public transport to individual spots.
Golden Buddha and Chinatown: Our route traversed numerous districts across the city on both sides of the Chao Phraya river, and we decided to get-off for the first time at Wat Trimit Witthayaram, home to the awe-inspiring gold Maravijaya Attitude seated Buddharupa statue, a true testament to Thailand’s reverence for Buddhism. Located nearby were the Chinatown Gate on Odeon Circle and the Kuan Yim (Guanyin) Shrine. These monuments served as a proud testament to the contributions of the Chinese immigrants in making the city a business hotspot. In addition, the 100+ year old shrine dedicated to the Chinese Goddess of Mercy also doubles as a charitable hospital.
Loha Prasat: Jumping back onto the next HoHo bus, we navigated through the colourful streets of Bangkok’s Chinatown area before disembarking at Wat Ratchanatdaram or Loha Prasat. Literally meaning “Iron Palace” in Thai (very similar to Sanskrit), this monastery with its intricate architecture and tranquil ambience took our breath away. We also admired the Saket Temple mount from across the street before taking a short walk to the beautiful Mahajetsadabodin Royal Pavilion.
Day 2:
Thailand is considered to be the Land of Temples, with some estimates suggesting that more than 40,000 temples dot the country. While Bangkok provides an excellent glimpse into the temple building heritage of Thailand, we wanted to get a deeper historical perspective and therefore, decided to undertake a day trip to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the former capital of Thailand, Ayutthaya.
Tai Hong Kong Shrine: Our day began with a visit to the serene shrine located opposite the offices of our tour operator – WanderSiam. It set the tone for an adventure steeped in culture and history. Joined by fellow travelers from different corners of the globe in a cozy van, we ventured through the picturesque Thai countryside, reminiscent of the lush landscapes of eastern India, minus the double decker highways of Thailand as well as the organized but hectic weekend traffic.
Bang Pa-In Royal Palace: Our first stop in Ayutthaya (named after the city of Rama – Ayodhya in India) and nestled along the tranquil banks of the Chao Phraya River, was the enchanting Bang Pa-In Royal Palace. Surrounded by lush gardens and ornamental ponds, this royal retreat boasted a fusion of architectural styles – from Chinese to Thai to Western influences, showcasing the grandeur of Thailand’s royal legacy. We would have perhaps enjoyed this much more had we been better prepared for the beating sun and hot weather – quite a surprise for December!
Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon: After some welcome relief in our air conditioned van, our exploration continued to Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, also known as Wat Pa Kaeo. This 16th century site with its towering stupas and serene ambiance, offered a glimpse into the spiritual and architectural richness of the ancient kingdom of Ayutthaya.
Wat Mahathat: Our next stop at Wat Mahathat continued to provide us with a glimpse into Thai history, and this case, it’s destruction and burning, along with the rest of the city, by the invading Burmese forces in 1767. This temple is also one of the most photographed sites in Ayutthaya as it houses the head of a Buddha entwined in the roots of a Banyan tree. While there are doubts about how it got there, there is no doubt about the lasting impression that the site still leaves on visitors even today.
Wihan Phramongkhon Bophit and Wat Phra Si Sanphet: Our penultimate stop stood tall and majestic amidst the ancient ruins of Ayutthaya. The Wihan Phramongkhon Bophit temple, built in the form of a monastery houses one of Thailand’s most revered treasures – a towering 17-meter-high bronze statue of Buddha. We were left awestruck by its serene presence, and the reverence and devotion of the local visitors. Fittingly next to the grand Wihan lies the majestic Wat Phra Si Sanphet complex. The three towering chedis are a reminder of a time when this site was the most revered one in Ayutthaya, being located within the compounds of the former royal palace before it was destroyed in 1767 by the invading Burmese army during the Burmese-Siamese war.
Wat Chaiwatthanaram: Bathed in the golden hues of the setting sun on the western banks of the Chao Phraya river, our final stop was also our favourite. Built in the 17th century, this temple left us awestruck with its Khmer-style architecture, adorned with intricate carvings and ornate spires. It was no wonder that the producers of Thailand’s best known movie and TV series, Love Destiny had made this the focal shooting point! And the impression it had left on ordinary Thai citizens was there for everyone to see – when we visited, there were thousands of locals who had dressed up just like the actors, in traditional Thai style, and were eagerly taking photos everywhere, even obliging “farangs” like us with patience and glorious smiles!
As we returned to Bangkok under the cloak of night, tired, and exhausted, we reflected on the majestic palaces, serene temples, and the warm hospitality of the Thai people we had encountered in Ayutthaya. It had been a journey through time, weaving together threads of history and culture in an enchanting corner of Thailand, and we couldn’t wait for what lay next in store for us!
Food haunts of the day: Breakfast at Staybridge Suites Thonglor, Snacks of fruits bought from Marché Thonglor, and Indian dinner delivered by Grab from Royal Masala.
Day 3:
After a long day in Ayutthaya, we spent the better part of 31st December resting and getting prepared for a long night.
Wat Pho Pier: We had planned to head out after a late breakfast and embark on a tranquil boat ride, but the traffic situation in Bangkok and the difficulty in getting around meant that we had to change our plans and instead found ourselves walking around the areas around Wat Pho Pier, where fortuitously we were able to catch the last sunset of the year (and an amazing one at that!) against the majestic Wat Arun. We also went up to the upper-floors of one of the nearby restaurants which provided us with a birds-eye view of the western banks of the Chao Phraya river in Bangkok, and this is something we would highly recommend!
IconSiam: As light started to fade, the city’s streets became even more congested than normal, with everyone heading to one or the other destinations to ring-in the new year. In a way missing the boat ride turned out to be a blessing in disguise as we headed out earlier than we had planned towards IconSiam, the venue for the largest fireworks ceremony in Thailand. As getting a Grab became unthinkable, we decide to indulge in an adventure by hopping onto a tuktuk. Our driver was nothing short of an F1 driver as he navigated the bottlenecks along the way with expertise (often driving on the wrong side of the road when there was no oncoming traffic!) and got us to the mall faster than any other mode of transport would have! This in turn meant that we had a delightful few hours to loiter around the largest mall in Bangkok before the commencement of the fireworks ceremony.
King Taksin the Great Bridge: As the IconSiam mall swelled with revellers, we realized that getting a good spot to see the fireworks from inside the mall would be next-to-impossible. Instead, we sought refuge on the nearby King Taksin the Great Bridge. It turned out to be a great decision once again as when the night sky exploded with bursts of colour, it was the perfect place to capture the city’s skyline against a dazzling display of light and joy. What amazed us more than the fireworks however, was the attitude of the thousands of locals who had joined us on the bridge – despite there being hardly any place to sit or stand, people spent their time enjoying all kinds of foods and drinks, and without a single untoward incident of anger or tension!
New Year’s Eve in Bangkok was truly magical and surpassed all expectations and will remain etched in our memories for a while!
Food haunts of the day: Late morning breakfast at Staybridge Suites Thonglor, snacks at Fire Tiger Bubble Tea Iconsiam, and Dinner at Masala Art Iconsiam.
Day 4:
Our last day in Bangkok coincided with the first day of the new year, and we were eager to make the most of the last few hours that we had in this enchanting land by undertaking a walking tour of Bangkok’s most important landmarks.
The taxi drivers of Bangkok however, almost disrupted this plan, as it took us more than an hour to finally get a Grab. This along with the fact that the Thai spend their 1st of January visiting temples is something that we will advice all travellers to keep in mind when visiting Bangkok!
Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew: Our first stop on the walking tour was the Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew). We were aptly dressed (both sites enforce a strict dress policy of covering shoulders and knees) and prepared to explore these iconic landmarks that stand as the epitome of Thailand’s rich cultural heritage. Standing in queue with hundreds of local Thais, we first visited the Wat, home to the revered Emerald Buddha, a sacred icon carved from a single piece of jade. Unfortunately, as photography inside the temple was not permitted, we couldn’t capture the idol or the beautiful sanctum sanctorum. Looking for a breath of fresh air, we spent some time walking around the grounds of the Grand Palace, exploring the various structures like the Phra Mondop, the library containing sacred Buddhist scriptures, the Phra Sri Rattana Chedi, a golden stupa housing relics of the Buddha, and the miniature sculpture of Angkor Wat.
Wat Pho: A short walk from the Grand Palace brought us to one of Bangkok’s most revered temples, Wat Pho. This sprawling temple complex, was an amalgamation of history, spirituality, and artistry. Entering through the temple’s towering gates, we were fortunate to witness and participate in a blessing ceremony on new year’s day by the local abbot. The temple’s spacious courtyards, ornate chedis, intricate murals, and Chinese statues are a precursor to the main highlight of Wat Pho – the magnificent Reclining Buddha. 46 meters long and covered in shimmering gold leaf, this colossal statue was a sight to behold. Outside, the inner sanctum, but within the temple grounds, lay the Thai Massage School. While we couldn’t visit it due to a paucity of time, it made us reflect on the deep impact that religion has played and continues to play in every day life in Thailand.
Wat Arun: Our final stop of the walking tour involved a walk from the Wat Pho to the nearby Tha Tian pier followed by a quick “khlong” boat ride across the Chao Phraya. As soon as we disembarked from the ferry, we found ourselves in the majestic shadow of Wat Arun‘s towering spires. We walked around the outer perimeter of the “temple of dawn”, admiring the intricate porcelain mosaics that adorned the temple’s façade. The unique feature of the temple was that the “prang” depicted scenes from both Hindu and Buddhist mythology, making it distinct to the other Buddhist temples that we had encountered on our travels across Thailand thus far. Having explored the temple, we walked along with our amazing guide (DJ – himself a former monk) through the neighbouring markets and residential areas to the Itsaraphap metro station and took the clean and organized (though a little expensive) Bangkok metro service to our hotel via Sukhumvit.
Following a quick change of clothes and a refreshing shower in our hotel, we decided to leave for the airport for our flight back. As our plane took off into the Thai night sky leaving behind the bright lights of Bangkok, we felt a sense of fulfillment and satisfaction from having immersed ourselves in the rich cultural tapestry of Thailand, and for having ushered in the new year in environs whose memories we will carry with us – from the warmth of the people to the cleanliness of the cities to the central role of spirituality in day-to-day life. “Khawp khun” and “jur gan” Bangkok, until next time!
Food haunts of the day: Late morning breakfast at Staybridge Suites Thonglor, snacks from street vendors on the way, and Dinner at Burger King Thonglor.
